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Priorities
Getting
Your Priorities In Line!
Make a list of your objectives.
You may not be able to achieve every financial goal you've ever dreamed
of, but you can achieve the most important ones if you identify them
clearly in your own mind and decide which are most important.
Focus first on what’s most important to you
To accomplish primary goals, you will often need to put equally
desirable but less important ones on a back burner.
Be prepared for conflicting goals
Even worthy goals often conflict with one another. When faced with a
conflict between goals of equal importance, you can sometimes choose by
applying criteria like: Will anyone's health be affected by my choice?
Will one of the conflicting goals benefit more people than the other?
Which goal will cause the greater harm if it is deferred?
Time is on your side.
The most important ally you have in meeting long-term goals, like
preparing for retirement, is time. The reason, of course, is that money
stashed in a savings account or invested in stocks, bonds or mutual
funds usually grows over time. Sometimes substantially, to help meet
your needs.
Choose your goals carefully.
In drawing up your list of goals, you should look for things that will
help you feel financially secure, happy or fulfilled. Once you have
your list together, you need to rank the items in order of importance.

Include Your Family
When Setting Goals
If
you have a spouse or significant other, make sure he or she is part of
the goal-setting process or you will probably regret it later.
Children, too, should have some say in goals that affect them.
Start as soon as possible.
The longer you wait to identify and begin working toward your goals,
the more difficulty you'll have reaching them.
Focus on the big goals.
Once you have prioritized your list of goals, keep your spending on
course. Whenever you make a large payment for anything ask yourself:
"Is this taking me nearer to my primary goals or leading me farther
away from them?" If a big expense doesn't get you closer to your goals,
try to defer or reduce it.
Don't worry about the small stuff.
Although this lesson encourages you to focus on big-ticket, long-range
plans, most of life is lived in the here-and-now and most of what you
spend will continue to be for daily expenses -- including many that are
simply for fun. That's okay, so long as your long-range needs are also
provided for.
Always be prepared for change.
Life is all about change! Your needs and desires invariably change as
you age, so you should probably reexamine your priorities at least
every five years.

Identifying Goals
Unless you win the lottery, you probably won't achieve
every financial goal. But you can go farther than you think if you
focus on what matters most.
What
is your most important financial objective?
Most people, when asked that question, they voice fantasies that
probably can't be achieved at all, like doubling their income
overnight, retiring at 30, or winning at Powerful.
The fact is, most of us have never spent much time thinking in a
systematic way about which financial objectives matter most. Instead,
we muddle through our financial lives, occasionally setting aside money
for important long-term needs. Like savings, investments, or insurance,
but more often just spending to meet the day-to-day expenses that
always clamor for attention. There's nothing terribly wrong with that
approach, except that it risks leaving the most important objectives
unfulfilled.
This is very important! This section is about helping you to choose
which financial goals matter most so that you can make sure they
happen.
That's not as easy as it sounds, since financial goals, even worthwhile
ones continually collide with one another. Paying for a child's braces
may rob money that would otherwise go into his or her college fund. And
saving effectively for college often wipes out any hope of putting
adequate money aside for retirement, to say nothing of bills that you
or a spouse could face to help care for an aging relative. Choosing
among important expenditures like these can be truly agonizing.
That's why to get what you want 1) You must decide which goals
will take precedence, and 2) work toward the lesser goals only after
the really important ones are well provided for.
Fortunately, when it comes to meeting your long-range goals, you have
time! That's an advantage, of course, because of the power of
compounding, the fact that small amounts of money, properly invested
over long periods of time, can grow into a significant sum. Suppose you
put aside only the cost of a single candy bar, about 65 cents each day.
Invested in a tax-deferred account paying 5 percent a year, that string
of savings would grow to $3,079 in just 10 years and to $16,521 in 30
years.
To put the power of compounding on your side, though, you have to start
early.
Make a list of all the things that you'd need to feel secure, happy or
fulfilled. These can range from the weighty (getting out of debt) to
the luxurious (a Lamborghini, say, or a cruise to Bali). You don't need
to prioritize them yet. That comes later. But you should try to get
down all of the money-related things that will really get your motor
started. And if you have a spouse or significant other, it's a good
idea to do this exercise together, assuming you think your relationship
can survive it! Here are some of the less frivolous items that you may
want to include among the possibilities:
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Accumulating enough savings to
handle an emergency
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Buying a house large enough to
accommodate you comfortably
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Getting out and staying out of
debt.
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Ensuring that your parents are
comfortable and well taken care of in their old age
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Paying for your children's
college education
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Investing with the aim of
becoming financially independent
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Amassing enough wealth to retire
comfortably
Once
you have your list in hand, move on to the next section where you'll
determine which of these goals are most important to you.

Setting The Plans
In
Motion
Now that you've identified the right goals, here are
examples of some game plans that will achieve them.
Assuming
that the earlier parts of this lesson have helped focus your attention
on your main priorities, here are examples of plans you might draw up
to meet three of the most common objectives: getting out of debt,
paying for college, or financing a retirement:
Getting out of debt
If you struggle to meet credit-card payments every month, then face it:
You probably need to shed or consolidate some of that debt. For
example, suppose you owe $3,000 in outstanding credit-card debt at a 16
percent interest rate and a $10,000 car loan at 9 percent. To pay off
both these obligations in a year, you'd need to pony up $1,150 a month.
But if you are a home owner with equity in your property, you could
borrow $13,000 on a home-equity loan at the same 9 percent and retire
those other bills. Then your cost to pay off the home-equity loan in a
year would be lower ($1,140 a month), because you're no longer paying
high credit-card rates of interest. Moreover, because you can deduct
the interest on most home-equity loans, you'd reduce your taxable
income by $680 that year, a $210 saving for someone in the 31 percent
federal tax bracket. In effect, the government would help you pay off
your nagging expenses.
Of course, this kind of strategy works only if you stop putting new
charges on your credit cards at the same time. This principle seems
obvious, but it's where most people fall down.
Paying for college
Tuition, room and board at a private college costs around $30,000 a
year today, and that bill is projected to reach $78,000 (based on
projections by T. Rowe Price) by the time this year's crop of newborns
are entering college 18 years hence. Your children may qualify for
financial aid either in the form of a scholarship or a loan, and many
students work their way through college. But if you want to spare your
kids the burden of graduating in debt, most states offer education
savings accounts in which after-tax contributions grow tax-deferred
until they're used to pay college tuition, when the withdrawals are
taxed at the child's minimal rate, rather than at the parent's rate.
You could also open a federal Education IRA that lets you put $500 a
year, after taxes, into a bank account or other investments; earnings
on that type of account are totally tax-free, provided the money is
used for tuition when it's withdrawn.
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Colleges: Neither of these plans, however, covers all of the typical cost of an
education. For example, if you started putting $500 a year today into
an Education IRA earning 8 percent, after 18 years you'd have only
$20,723.13, about one-tenth of what a top-price four-year undergraduate
degree is projected to cost. To meet the rest of the costs, you can
supplement your investments with mutual funds, stocks or bonds --
especially zero-coupon bonds that don't make interest payments but that
cost substantially less than they pay at maturity.
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For example, a
$10,000 zero-coupon bond that matures in 18 years issued by a U.S.
corporation recently cost around $3,350. Best of all, you can buy
bonds that will mature in years when a child's tuition payments will
be due.
If you keep in mind that being able to pay your newborn's college costs
is more important to you than, say, driving a luxury car, then stick
with a family car instead. Let your priorities direct your
discretionary spending.
Financing a retirement
A popular rule of thumb claims that retirees need only 70 percent of
their pre-retirement income to maintain their lifestyle, since they no
longer have to pay for commuting or for work clothes.
In fact, however, other costs go up in retirement, such as utility
bills when you're home all day, the price of hobbies and other
diversions and, of course, the cost of health care as you age. Some
retirees find they need as much income in retirement as they spent
while working.
Unfortunately, traditional pensions pay only a fraction of your salary,
and Social Security won't make up the difference. In addition, the
younger you are, the less certain you can be about how much money
you'll receive at age 65 from any of the retirement plans you have
today. Why? Because Social Security benefits may be revised -- and
employers are free at any time to change their pension-plan formulas.
(They can't do so retroactively -- every retirement dollar that you've
already qualified for is yours to keep. But employers may legally alter
the calculations they use to determine the retirement benefits a
worker's salary will earn in the future.) And of course, Congress can
change the laws governing retirement savings plans at any time.
So to make your retirement finances secure, you need to contribute to
as many different plans as possible. If you have a 401(k), 403(b) or
457 program at work, put in as much money as you can. Most employers
will match your contributions, giving you money for retirement that you
won't get any other way. If you have no retirement plan at work,
contribute to an IRA. Note that contributions to all of these plans are
tax deferred, so that you, Uncle Sam and your boss together could be
adding to your retirement stash.
Then to insure against possible new retirement-plan rules mandated by
Congress, you need to have your own taxable savings plan as well
ideally invested in stocks, bonds, or mutual funds which generally
return more than bank accounts. Best of all, as your investing account
grows, it can help you finance other goals as well.

Start Here:
"Your Credit Report"
Everyone
should know where they stand when it comes to their personal
credit. Obtain a copy of your credit report from all three of the
top credit reporting bureaus, (Trans Union, Equifax, and Experian).
After you have obtained these reports, go through them one by one
checking to see if everything on those reports are true and accurate!
When ordering your reports make sure that you ask for credit scores
with your reports! This is very important. You will receive a separate
score (and probably a different score) from all three agencies. The
middle score of the three will be the score that the financial
companies will be judging you by.
For example, if you receive a score of 595 from one report, and a score
of 645 from the 2nd, and a 3rd score of 688, then your middle score
would be 645. So you really need those scores to know where you stand
when it comes to seeking any type of loans.
After inspecting your reports you will find that your credit reports
may need some repairing? Don’t be alarm, you can work on getting your
credit reports repaired by contacting the three bureaus in writing. If
you are not sure what steps to take to go about this, I would suggest
reading a book called “Credit
Repair to Credit Millionaire!” This book has helped me and I’m sure
it will help you too!


Getting
Your Priorities In Line
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